The Katmai Peninsula, west southwest of Anchorage and across the Shelikof Strait from Kodiak Island is a pristine wilderness not marred by buildings, roads, people or any signs of them. the area is teeming with wildlife, including brown bears (kodiak, grizzly), red foxes, a variety of birds, seals, otters, sea lions, whales, bald eagles and, of course, a myriad of litoral creatures on the shoreline. No hunting is allowed and the bears seem unaffected by human presence; they simply ignore you if you don't crowd them. We traveled to Kodiak Island and then across the Strait in MV Coastal Explorer, skippered by bear expert Chuck Keim. Roy Toft Photo Safaris organized the trip.